I think Xi'an is a great city. I had a good time there. The airport is pretty woeful for such a large and interesting (and popular) tourist destination. You can't win them all. Oh well. About the laowai hotel scam: it is back in full force. I experienced this when I flew down to Shijiazhuang to spend two nights revisiting friends. The only hotels that would take laowai were actually grottier, further away from trains and transit, and infinitely more expensive than the majority of hotels on offer; none of which accepted foreign guests. I don't kid. It took trips to 14 hotels and nearly two and a half hours to find one that would accept a laowai. A few days later we took the train down to Handan and encountered a similar problem, but it took four hotels and fourty-five minutes to find one. Referrals from one hotel to hotels that supposedly took laowai always turned up a dead end. This leads me to believe that these changes are something that is being enforced within the last year. Hebei, Shaanxi, Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou (Zhejiang??? I wouldn't be surprised). Reading about China ten years ago, it appears that the bad old days are coming back.